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Dagueneau Pouilly Fume Pur Sang 2011
100% Sauvignon Blanc. Didier Dagueneau was a fourth generation winemaker in the village of St Andelain in Pouilly-Fumé. In typical Didier fashion, in 1982 he elected to set up his winery in Pouilly-Fumé instead of joining the family fold. Inspired by the great wines of Burgundy and other top regions, his mentors were Edmond Vatan and Henri Jayer, and emboldened by the wisdom and traditions of his grandfather, Louis Dagueneau, he set about to create a Pouilly-Fumé of extraordinary dimension and terroir focus exploiting the top vineyard sites. Today, the domaine is run by fifth generation Louis-Benjamin Dagueneau, Didier's son, whose curiosity and drive have further soldified the domaine's place in the upper echelon of the wine world.
"I had chance to compare the two lots that represent Dagueneau’s passes on the vineyard for his 2011 Blanc Fume de Pouilly Pur Sang as well as to essay an impromptu blend, featuring high-toned peppermint and pungent if elusive floral essences; a slippery textured, infectiously juicy, wafting mid-palate. A savory, saline, iodine-tinged suggestion of shrimp shell reduction helps render the finish mouthwatering as well as intriguing, while nips of citrus pip peppermint serve for invigoration. The even and advanced ripeness as well as watercolor-like (rather than sharply focused or intensely saturated) expression of the 2011 vintage is here combined with an engaging vivacity and transparency to nuance that one doesn’t often encounter. Louis-Benjamin Dagueneau indicated that he was still working with the lees of his young 2011s “to build body and richness,” but I hope he views this Pur Sang as on the right track to gloriously delicious self-expression without much further assistance!" - David Schildknecht