Joiseph Blaufränkisch "BFF" 2019
100% Blaufränkisch. Joiseph is a new estate, founded in 2015, by three friends Luka Zeichmann, Richard Artner, and Xandl Kagl. It started with a tiny vineyard in the village of Jois, thus the name is a playful personification of the village. Joiseph has grown quietly, slowly, and it has quietly become the talk of Burgenland. They produced only minuscule amounts of wine (with only about a hectare under vine); it was mostly drunk by other Austrian winemakers and people started talking. Here is an estate with elements of nearly everything the Burgenland has offered: aromatic complexity, stature, and polish, clarity, as well as buoyant energy, a certain soil focus. Although it opens often a bit reductive (they normally ferment it with nearly half whole bunches and covered with the destemmed mash to provoke something of a semi-carbonic fermentation to begin), the wine opens up and literally unfurls into fine layer after fine layer of bright red to dark purple fruit, sour dark black earth, a Rhône-ish spice, black olive, tension, cranberry, green spice, salt, good energy and mineral on the palate. There is something about the accessibility here, the balance of tangible and savory fruit, the saturation of the wine, and on the other hand its reticent nature, the pull, and energy...always a gentle breeze pushing back the sunshine. Just pure and vibrant wine. In the end, Joiseph wines are, hands down, the most ethereal, delicate wines we have ever had from the Burgenland. They are ravishing.