Montesecondo Chianti Classico 2018
90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo/Colorino. Montesecondo is an under-the-radar force of quality winegrowing and winemaking in the prominent, but the variable zone of Chianti Classico, driven by Silvio Messana's close observation of and involvement with his farming and winemaking, both of which are constantly adapted as he experiments with drawing out the best of his terroir and fruit. Silvio worked in the wine business in New York until he moved back to Italy in the 1990s to take over his family farm, Montesecondo, in Chianti Classico region. He bottled his first wines in 2000, became organic by 2003, and now has two properties from which he harvests biodynamic fruit. Silvio crafts pure, classically expressive Sangiovese and he gets there by using native yeasts, various aging materials (but no new oak), and minimal sulfur. The emphasis at Montesecondo is on grape and place, best expressed in his opinion through minimal but careful intervention. This Chianti Classico is a blend of both properties, fermented with 30% whole cluster, aged in concrete for a little over a year, and is not fined or filtered. It is the truest expression of Sangiovese in Chianti Classico and an example that this region which has been overrun with massive companies, indifferent wines, and is now "un-cool" can show what made it famous in the first place. It just needs a visionary like Silvio to get us there.